During the Prohibition era in the 1920s and early 30s, leaders in Washington called Pittsburgh “the wettest spot in the United States.”
We had infamous bootleggers and speakeasies in most neighborhoods, and Penn Avenue was even considered “Rum Row.”
So it’s no surprise — with our defiant spirit flowing as far back as the Whiskey Rebellion — that our very own tipplers of McKeesport created a cocktail known for both its potentness and the mischief that ensued when someone took a swig.
The “fussfungle,” made like a sweeter old fashioned with pure spirits, water, and burned brown sugar molasses, was invented by Slavic immigrants around the turn of the 19th century. The recipe hit newspaper wires and inspired cocktail culture across the country.
“There’s more mischief in a pint of it than a barrel of real whiskey contains,” a Minneapolis Daily Times article from 1902 says. “At an expense of two dollars, enough fussfungle has been manufactured to keep the McKeesport police court busy all day Monday and Tuesday with a little work leftover for Wednesday.”
The story goes on to describe the effects of McKeesport’s “mighty mead”: “Its devotees jump high and sing at first. At a later stage of the festivities they try to recite poetry and then there is a fight.”
What’s the fuss over fussfungles? (Francesca Dabecco / City Cast Pittsburgh / Newspaper Archives)
The cocktail caused so much trouble in this Monongahela River town that its mayor, Robert J. Black, attempted to convince residents not to imbibe by administering an “oath” to McKeesporters looking to start fresh on New Years Day, 1902.
A clipping from The Morning Call said that 67 citizens took the oath, but a few were back behind bars just hours later.
One local who fell from his state of grace said: “Easy to see why I did it. Felt so good to think I had thrown off that demon of drink I got drunk to celebrate.”
Curious to try the fussfungle (and dare I say, see what all the fuss is about)? I searched far and wide on local menus, and I couldn't find it on any. But when I stopped in Kingfly Spirits in the Strip District, bar manager Ashley Smith said they have a recipe that combines their rye whiskey and rum made with molasses. Thanks to my bartender, Will, who whipped it up like it was 1902!
🥃 Want to make it at home? Try this recipe from Keet’s Cocktails.
